Ayantika Malakar

To me, the most fascinating thing about Sonmarg isn’t just its breathtaking beauty—it’s the adventurous horse-riding experience that awaits, ready to whisk you away into its snow-laden meadows. Sure, the golden grasslands and shimmering snow patches are a sight to behold, but there’s something uniquely thrilling about exploring this winter wonderland atop a mischievous horse like Rustam.

Sonmarg, or “Sonamarg” as the locals call it, literally means the ‘Meadow of Gold.’ And when you visit during late autumn, the name comes to life with astounding accuracy. Vast stretches of golden grass shimmer under the bright sun, while freshly fallen snow adds a magical touch to the scenery.

We set off from Srinagar on a crisp November morning, the chill in the air biting through our layers of clothes. The drive was a visual treat, the verdant greens of the valley gradually fading into earthy tones, hinting at the rugged, colder terrains ahead. Nestled about 77 kilometers northeast of Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir’s Ganderbal district, Sonmarg sits at the gateway to Ladakh. By mid-November, the landscape is partially cloaked in snow, the crowds have thinned, and the place exudes a serene, almost otherworldly charm.

Our first challenge in Sonmarg was less about the cold and more about negotiating for a pony ride. After a round of haggling, we secured a deal and were introduced to our companions for the day. Our young guide, a cheerful local boy, acquainted us with the two ponies that would carry us through the adventure. Rustam—a lively, mischievous horse full of energy was mine to tame, while my husband rode Bijli, a calm, experienced mare with a temperament that defied her electrifying name.

Before starting, the guide gave us a brief lesson on horseback riding: how to balance our weight, how to avoid falling, and how to stay steady during the ride. I was thrilled by the idea of riding a horse through such a beautiful place and it felt easy enough at first. The path was bumpy and uneven, often flanked by snow-covered fields on either side. We set off slowly, but it didn’t take long before I realized that Rustam had a mind of his own. He had a young playful energy. He made the journey anything but monotonous for me. He had an unpredictable streak—rushing up slopes, hopping over uneven rocks, leaving me clinging tightly to the reins and praying for stability.

Meanwhile, my husband’s horse, Bijli, trotted along gracefully, choosing gentler paths and keeping a steady pace. I couldn’t help but glance at him with a mix of envy and relief—at least one of us was having a smooth ride! The guide, noticing my struggles, gave us further instructions on how to steer the horse and guide it in the right direction. I learned how to steer him left and right and how to slow him down by pulling gently on the reins.

Despite the initial nerves, I quickly picked up the technique, and more importantly, discovered how to calm Rustam by gently caressing his head and neck. This small trick worked wonders. Soon the mischievous side of me took over. I couldn’t resist the urge to race. I nudged Rustam, who responded by picking up speed. For a brief moment, it felt like we were flying. My giggles echoed through the valley as the guide ran after us, probably wondering if I had lost my mind. My husband, still riding Bijli at her steady pace, was amused and concerned.

It took us about 50 minutes of riding along a bumpy, snow-lined path to reach the snow point. Across a narrow stream, the area was blanketed in several feet of fresh snow. We dismounted, ready to enjoy some snow-filled fun. From the snow point, the view of Thajiwas Glacier was absolutely mesmerizing. The towering peaks, coated in a thick blanket of snow, glowed with a golden hue under the soft sunlight, as if nature itself had sprinkled gold dust over them. The shimmering snow sparkled brilliantly, while the pine forests at the base of the glacier added a rich green contrast to the golden-white panorama. The gentle murmur of the nearby stream enhanced the serenity of the place, making it feel like we had stepped into a winter wonderland. Standing there, soaking in the beauty of the landscape, it was hard not to be overwhelmed by the sheer grandeur of nature.

^{Where the sun turns peaks into gold—Thajiwas Glacier at its finest.}

We made the most of our time there. We hurled snowballs at each other and made snow angels – felt like reclaiming a slice of childhood joy, I had my fair share of tumbles, thanks to the slippery black ice, but it was all in good fun. I even tried building a snowman, though it ended up looking more like a squashed lump.

Despite it being very cold, we laughed our way through every moment. Of course, my soaked socks, stained jeans, red nose, and pink cheeks told their own story of a day well spent. On our way back, I had grown confident in my horse-riding skills. I was no longer the nervous rider who had clung desperately to Rustam’s reins. Rustam, too, seemed more at ease, trotting along with a playful yet cooperative demeanor. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment. For a brief moment, I even imagined myself as a princess riding through snowy meadows.

Along the trail, I noticed few tourists struggling with their horses. Two of them even fell off. Watching them made me realize just how far I had come from the nervous rider I was at the start of the day. And yes, Rustam with his restless and spirited nature, definitely lived up to his name.

By the time we reached the parking lot, I was tired but extremely happy. The entire experience had been exhilarating. The quiet charm of Sonmarg, combined with the thrill of horse riding through snow-covered meadows, made it a day I’ll never forget.

Best time to visit

Sonmarg is inaccessible during peak winter due to heavy snowfall and frequent avalanches. The best time to visit is from April to June and mid-September to mid-November when the weather is pleasant and the landscape is breathtaking.

Where to stay?

Sonmarg is a day excursion from Srinagar. While many visitors prefer a day trip from Srinagar, you can stay overnight if you plan to explore nearby lakes or trek further. A range of hotels is available in Sonmarg.

What to eat?

At the snow point, you’ll find small roadside stalls offering hot beverages and Maggi. For a proper meal, there are eateries along the Srinagar-Sonmarg highway.

How to Reach?

Sonmarg is located on the Srinagar-Leh highway. It’s about a two to three hours drive from Srinagar, with the road remaining open from April to November. A daily bus service operates between Srinagar and Sonmarg during the tourist season (May to September). Private cabs can also be hired for a day trip, and the road conditions are generally good.

Other Places to Visit

Sonmarg serves as a starting point for the Amarnath Yatra and treks to several high-altitude lakes, including Vishansar, Krishansar, Gangabal, and Gadsar. Popular nearby attractions include the Zojila Pass, zero point, Baltal village, and Kheer Bhavani Temple. Note that private vehicles aren’t allowed beyond Sonmarg to Zojila Pass, so you’ll need to hire a local cab.

This trip to Sonmarg was more than just sightseeing—it was a medley of adventure, laughter, and precious moments. From the spirited horse ride to playful snow fights, every bit of Sonmarg left me with memories to cherish. If you’re planning a visit, I highly recommend taking the horse ride to Thajiwas Glacier. It’s an experience that will thrill you, challenge you, and leave you grinning long after it’s over.

A final thought..

While Sonmarg dazzles visitors with its pristine beauty and serene landscapes, it’s crucial to ensure we leave the meadow of gold as untouched as we found it. Tourism can bring immense value to local communities, but it’s equally important to minimize its environmental impact.

• Avoid littering, and carry reusable water bottles and bags to reduce plastic waste. Sonmarg’s natural beauty is best preserved when we leave no trace behind.

• Stick to designated trails during horse rides or treks to prevent damaging the fragile ecosystem.By making thoughtful choices during our travels, we can ensure that Sonmarg remains the magical wonderland it is—for generations to come.