Stepping into Kashmir in autumn felt like stepping into a dream — the crisp air biting at my skin, vibrant Chinar trees ablaze with colours, and the distant shimmer of snow-capped mountains created a landscape so stunning, it seemed almost unreal. As I stood there, mesmerized by the fiery hues of the trees and the misty allure of Dal Lake, I couldn’t help but feel that I had stumbled upon paradise. I had seen pictures of this place before, but nothing had prepared me for the overwhelming beauty that unfolded before my eyes. This was Kashmir — a land so mysteriously enchanting.
Our trip was unexpected. I was handed my flight tickets just two nights before departure – a whirlwind of emotions: shock, excitement, and a little bit of confusion. I had no time to plan, no time to think. I quickly packed my bags, seeking leave from work, and before I could fathom everything, I was on a flight to Srinagar, accompanying my husband on a work trip. I was stepping into the unknown, not just physically, but emotionally as well.
Exploring Srinagar Solo
While my husband delved into work, I was free to discover Srinagar on my own. At first, the idea of exploring Srinagar solo felt audacious. In Kashmir, especially as a female tourist, the very thought of stepping out alone could stir up concerns. Would I be able to navigate this unfamiliar world on my own? Would I feel at home in a place that seemed so distant, yet so beautiful? Only time would tell. But, somewhere deep inside, I knew it was an opportunity to show some courage and gain more confidence in return, and I embraced it.
In Kashmir, your regular prepaid SIM card doesn’t work. So, either you carry a postpaid connection or buy one from here. I had to buy a local one at a premium price before jumping into my day tour. I stepped out of the hotel with a sense of nervous excitement. Srinagar, at first glance, felt unfamiliar and a little daunting. I could feel my heart racing — a mix of fear and excitement. What if something went wrong? But I refused to let fear hold me back. This was my moment. I reserved an auto rickshaw, ready to explore the treasures that lined the east bank of Dal Lake. My heart raced with anticipation, but I made sure to stay connected — sharing my driver’s details and my live location with my husband. I’d also done some research on distances and directions, giving me peace of mind as I ventured out.
Srinagar is well known for housing some exclusive Mughal gardens. At every season these gardens will awe you with their distinctive charm. My first stop was Nishat Bagh, the Garden of Joy. Situated on the banks of Dal Lake, against the serene backdrop of the Zabarwan mountains, Nishat Bagh presents a calendar perfect image of autumn. It was a riot of colours — red-gold chinar leaves swirling down in delicate spirals. All of a sudden rain began to fall. I could hear it tapping lightly on the leaves, creating a soft, rhythmic sound that blended with the distant chirping of birds. The water of the Dal lake, once still, now danced with the raindrops, creating ripples that mirrored the stormy sky above. Unfortunately, I didn’t carry an umbrella. The rain dampened my clothes, but it seemed to amplify the garden’s beauty. The water channel in the garden now rushed forward, dancing with the rhythm of the rain. And though my body shivered from the chill, my heart soared. There’s something magical about being caught in the rain, something nostalgic that takes you back to the carefree days of childhood.
Pari Mahal, literally, the “Palace of Fairies,” was next on my itinerary. A sinuous road with Chinar trees lining the path like sentinels, and their golden-crimson fallen leaves along the pavement, led me to this seven-tiered monument perched atop the Zabarwan range. Delighted I hopped up the stairs to the top of Pari Mahal, where I could get a bird eye view of Srinagar city. Though fog obscured the view, the charm of the place was undeniable. The misty atmosphere lent the garden an ethereal quality. It is said to have been built by Dara Sikhoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan. When I sought to know the story behind this place, driver uncle said “Yahan pe Pari-ya rehti thi.” Fairy or no fairy, this place is definitely angelic – as though the heavens themselves had smiled down on this land.
Pari Mahal: A mesmerizing blend of Mughal architecture and scenic beauty (Slideshow).
After my tranquil visit to Pari Mahal, I continued my adventure, eager to uncover the secrets hidden in the hills of Srinagar. At Chasme Shahi Bagh, a smaller, but no less enchanting garden, I marveled at its lush flowers. The sun broke through the clouds just in time for me to capture the splendour of the flowers. I wandered through the garden, feeling like a guest in nature’s secret home. Originally named as Chasme Sahibi, this garden is centred around a freshwater spring discovered by Kashmiri Pandit poet Rupa Bhawani (Sahib). Shah Jahan commissioned the construction of this garden on the slopes of Zabarwan mountains and dedicated it to his eldest son Dara Sikhoh.
Chashme Shahi Garden: A serene oasis in Srinagar, where lush greenery, flowing springs, and panoramic views create a timeless paradise.
Finally, the Jawaharlal Nehru Botanical Garden offered an extravagance of rare flowers and ornamental trees. A symphony of colours, it is a huge sprawling garden with a lake in between. I wandered through the vibrant maze of flora, camera in hand, fascinated by their diversity and capturing the beauty of the autumnal hues. Suddenly, a group approached me, their eyes wide with curiosity. A middle-aged lady, pointed at my DSLR, a question hanging unspoken in the air. She was accompanied by her young daughter. Hesitation, a ghost of the prejudices relating to Kashmir, briefly gripped me. But the warmth in their eyes, the genuine curiosity, melted away the apprehension. They were from a nearby town, a world away from the bustling city, and this camera, with its intricate workings, was a marvel to them. Language proved to be a minor hurdle, but smiles and gestures bridged the gap. They were a simple family, their lives seemingly untouched by the rapid pace of the outside world. We spent the afternoon chatting, our laughter mingling with the rustling of leaves. They invited me to their home for lunch, a gesture of hospitality that touched me deeply. Though I politely declined that day, promising to visit on a future trip, the invitation spoke volumes about their generosity.
I clicked their pictures, capturing their smiles and the genuine joy in their eyes. In return, they insisted on taking photos with me, our faces beaming with the unexpected camaraderie. As we parted ways, a lingering warmth filled the air. They buddy hugged me goodbye, their faces etched with gratitude. Back in Kolkata, I sent them the photographs, a small token of our shared afternoon. The experience left a lasting impression on me, a reminder that friendship can bloom in the most unexpected of places.
A haven of lush greenery and vibrant blooms – Jawaharlal Nehru Botanical Garden, Srinagar (Slideshow).
My solo exploration of Srinagar came to a close with a basic lunch at a Punjabi dhaba. As I returned to the hotel, tired yet fulfilled, I realized that solo travel isn’t just about seeing new places — it’s about discovering new strengths within yourself. I came to Srinagar as a curious tourist, but I left feeling empowered, confident, and more connected to the world around me.
The Joys and Challenges of Solo Travel
Solo travel is both a gift and a challenge, filled with uncertainty, the occasional discomfort of being alone, and moments of hesitation when you wonder if you’re doing the right thing. Solo travel was a new experience for me. When I first set out, everything felt new and unfamiliar. But the idea of staying cooped up in a hotel room was worse. With each step, I grew bolder. I spoke to locals, found my way, and created my own itinerary. Though the driver was cautious, he ensured I was safe, waiting for me at the exits of gardens and helping me feel at ease.
The best part? I felt empowered. Every decision I made, every interaction I had, and every corner I explored gave me a new sense of contentment.
But of course, there were moments when I missed the little things — like having my personal photographer (my husband) to capture my adventures. I had to be resourceful, asking fellow travellers to snap my picture, and in turn, capturing theirs. It was a small challenge, but it added a sense of camaraderie to my solo adventure.
Language was another barrier. The locals didn’t speak Hindi, and my knowledge of Kashmiri is zero. But the warmth in their smiles, the simple gestures, and the universal language of kindness made it easier to connect.
Budget breakdown
The cost for a reserved auto rickshaw to and from Rajbagh area, covering the sights mentioned above, was Rs. 1100 (including tip). Each of the gardens charged a nominal entry fee of Rs. 30 (or Rs. 15 for children). Kashmir, however, can be an expensive place to eat, especially in the more touristy areas around Dal Lake. Basic eateries were available at Botanical garden, Nishat garden and Chasme shahi garden. Walnuts were priced at Rs. 350 per kg, and I couldn’t resist buying a few to munch on as I explored. Nonetheless, the memories I made here were priceless.
Exotic beauty captured in full bloom – Mughal Gardens, Srinagar (Slideshow).
The city had revealed some of its secrets, but there were other corners of Kashmir waiting to be uncovered — and this time, I’d explore them alongside my husband. From the serene beauty of the famous houseboats to the vibrant markets and tranquil landscapes, our Kashmir journey was far from over. So, stay tuned for the second part of this adventure, where we continue to uncover the enchanting beauty of Kashmir — together.
Ayantika Malakar 
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